WHAT KAYAK SHOULD I BUY? – How to choose your sea kayak

The Importance of Space and Transportation

We are dedicated to and enjoy the discipline of SEA KAYAKING. So we will focus on this modality. And you must keep in mind that any sea kayak, in general, will measure from three meters and shortest peak to five or six meters that comes to measure a sea kayak or a surfski. Many times we see a kayak on the beach or in a store and we get the impression that it is not that big. But when you buy it without taking measurements and try to put it in the elevator you realize that it is worth not being so impulsive and be clear about where you are going to store it before making the purchase.

So, if you don’t have a big house, a storage unit, a garage, or any other place where you can keep it safe while it’s not in use, you’ll have to settle for an inflatable kayak—which I prefer to call “puncturable” kayaks. It’s true that new models are coming out and improving every season, but in my humble opinion, these kayaks are only good for a leisurely paddle in relatively calm waters. As a general rule, these kayaks don’t handle well because it’s hard to stay on course. They’re very bulky, and the paddler is usually crammed against the bottom, so paddling isn’t comfortable and you have to raise your arms really high.

Types of Rigid Kayaks: Self-bailing or Closed?

All of this means that if you’re even slightly interested in learning a little about paddling styles or different maneuvers (in a kayak, you can do much more than just go “forward,” “backward,” or turn), your learning will be very limited in a kayak of this type. But above all, if you’re going to paddle an inflatable kayak, check the forecast carefully and keep your fingers crossed that the wind doesn’t pick up—otherwise, you might be in for a scare. Besides, the material isn’t as durable as that of a hard-shell kayak, so the risk of a puncture is much higher if you get too close to rocky areas.

I think that now that I’ve taken away your desire to buy a “puncture-proof” kayak, we have found a place to store it and how to transport it. So now we are going to choose a decent kayak to really enjoy this discipline.

“Sit-on-top” kayaks or self-bailing kayaks

From here, what anyone would start with would be a “sit on top” or self-bailing kayak. We are talking about a kayak, which as the anglicism says, you are sitting on top and that by much water that is entering the boat will not have to worry because it has several holes that will be responsible for bailing the water automatically. There are many different brands and models and the most basic are the typical polyethylene kayaks usually used by rental companies. They are usually very versatile kayaks and since they do not fit inside, if a capsize occurs, you just have to flip them over and climb back on top, which is very safe for inexperienced paddlers and one of their biggest advantages is that they are almost indestructible. But these kayaks, despite sailing much better than an inflatable, also have many limitations in terms of learning more advanced techniques.

Traditional Sea Kayak (“Sit-Inside”)

Therefore, if you really want to delve into this exciting modality, I would recommend that you choose a traditional sea kayak or a closed or “sit inside” sea kayak. These are boats in which you sit inside, closed with the skirt or bathing cover. The greatest advantage of this type of kayak is that by sitting inside, the paddler acquires much greater control of the boat and can perform many of the maneuvers thanks to the support or contact with his knees, feet and hips. It is often said that paddler and boat become one. By being closed with the “cover” also prevents water from entering, even in case of capsize if you master the technique of roll or “esquimotaje” (We are talking about the “fetish” maneuver for all experienced kayakers).

The feeling of being enclosed in a kayak can be a little overwhelming at first, so I would always recommend that before you start using this type of kayak, someone teach you at least the basic rescue and self-rescue techniques, because if you don’t understand these concepts, you could be in for a rough time if you fall into the water.

• Length or length of the boat: The longer the kayak is, as a general rule, the better it sails (in a straight line). But the more complicated turns and maneuvers become. So if you want it for multi-day trips or just long paddling trips, I would go for a kayak of 5 meters and more. However, if your outings are not that long or you are looking for a “more playful” kayak to be able to maneuver more comfortably or be more agile in the waves or among the rocks, I would go for a 4 meters and pico kayak. Kayaks shorter than 4 meters, in my opinion, become too slow and you will probably find it impossible to keep up with your touring buddies.
• Beam or width of the boat: Also as a general rule, the narrower the boat, the faster, but more unstable. To begin with, don’t choose a model that is too narrow or you will have a hard time getting the hang of it. It is worthwhile to change boats as you gain experience and self-confidence.
• Rocker or longitudinal curvature of the hull: A kayak with almost no curvature allows for faster and more efficient straight-line navigation. However, boats with more rocker make turning and maneuvering easier.

• Rudder: The rudder is a useful tool to keep the course especially in adverse conditions (waves or wind). Although I would always advise you to dispense with it if you are a beginner because it greatly adulterates the learning process. In addition in practice capsizes with rescues it becomes very dangerous as it is like a blade.
• Folding daggerboard: Very useful for keeping the course in kayaks with a lot of rocker. But don’t forget to stow it in rocky areas or when you reach the shore.
• Material (Polyethylene or fiberglass): As I mentioned earlier, polyethylene is nearly indestructible but much heavier—though it’s also much cheaper. So, if you’re going to be dragging it around a lot, plan on paddling among the rocks, or simply don’t want to spend a fortune, this is a good option. A fiberglass kayak is much more expensive, but much lighter, and although they are durable, they do get scratched and the paint chips off every time you brush against a rock.

• Primary and secondary stability: Primary stability can be understood as the stability provided by our kayak when we are simply sitting in it, at rest and floating on the water. Secondary stability, on the other hand, is what we perceive when we tilt the boat to one side. The latter is very important when using more advanced techniques such as edging, turning, or leaning. Depending on the type of transverse curvature of the kayak’s hull, one or the other will predominate. If the hull is “U”-shaped, we’ll have greater primary stability, but we’ll lose stability when leaning to one side. On the other hand, if the hull is more “V”-shaped, we’ll gain that secondary stability. As a general rule, a beginner will always prefer greater primary stability, since they’ll feel safer and be less afraid of capsizing. However, with this hull shape, it’s more difficult to develop proficiency in more advanced techniques, since these require greater secondary stability. Here, as with everything in life, things aren’t black and white—what I mean is that we can find several intermediate options that better suit our individual characteristics.
• Kayak size: You should also keep in mind that normally all models have different sizes (each model usually has two or at most three different sizes. But you need yours to be comfortable). So it is not the same kayak for a 1’90 meters and 110 kg paddler than for a 1’60 meters and 65 kg paddler.
• Double or single kayak: Personally I would never buy a double kayak unless I already have my single kayak. Of course the double is fine to take your child for a walk or in special situations when one of the paddlers needs to be accompanied. But if you want to learn and enjoy with your sea kayak I would not hesitate to buy a single. You can’t imagine how many times people have told me that they had bought a double kayak and that in the end they never used it because their “supposed companion” always backed out or didn’t feel like it anymore.

Final tip for choosing your boat

With all this in mind, you should now have a good idea of how to start looking for your own kayak. I’d recommend trying out a friend’s kayak at first or buying a used one (there are several apps for this kind of gear where you’ll find a wide variety of deals at good prices), since your first choice probably won’t be your final kayak—either because you don’t feel comfortable in it or because you’ll improve and need a more technical kayak to take your skills to the next level. In my case, I’ve tried more than six different models until I finally found the perfect kayak for me (for now…).

And if, despite all the above, you are not sure, do not hesitate to contact us and we will help you with your choice.