WHAT KAYAK SHOULD I BUY? – How to choose your sea kayak

As in our previous post “What mountain bike should I buy?”, this time before deciding on one boat or another we should ask ourselves the following question: What do I want it for? or on what occasions will I use it?

But there is also a very limiting factor for this type of device, so first of all we should also ask ourselves this second question: do I have room to store it and also a way to transport it?

We are dedicated to and enjoy the discipline of SEA KAYAKING. So we will focus on this modality. And you must keep in mind that any sea kayak, in general, will measure from three meters and shortest peak to five or six meters that comes to measure a sea kayak or a surfski. Many times we see a kayak on the beach or in a store and we get the impression that it is not that big. But when you buy it without taking measurements and try to put it in the elevator you realize that it is worth not being so impulsive and be clear about where you are going to store it before making the purchase.

Therefore, if you don’t have an apartment, warehouse, garage, or any other place where you can leave it safe while you don’t use it, you will have to go to die for an inflatable kayak, which I prefer to call “puncture-proof” kayaks. It is true that new models are coming out and are being improved every season, but in my humble opinion these kayaks are only good for a little ride in relatively calm waters. As a general rule, they are kayaks that do not usually navigate well because it is difficult to stay on course. They are very bulky and the paddler is usually wedged in the bottom so the paddling is not comfortable and you have to raise your arms a lot. All this implies that if you have a little interest in learning a little about the types of paddling or different maneuvers (in a kayak you can do much more than go “p’alante”, “p’atrás” or turn), your learning will be very limited in a kayak of this type. But, above all, if you are going to sail in an inflatable kayak, check the forecast and keep your fingers crossed that the wind doesn’t pick up because you could have a scare. Besides, the material is not as resistant as any rigid kayak, so the risk of puncture is much higher if you approach a rocky area.

I think that now that I’ve taken away your desire to buy a “puncture-proof” kayak, we have found a place to store it and how to transport it. So now we are going to choose a decent kayak to really enjoy this discipline.

From here, what anyone would start with would be a “sit on top” or self-bailing kayak. We are talking about a kayak, which as the anglicism says, you are sitting on top and that by much water that is entering the boat will not have to worry because it has several holes that will be responsible for bailing the water automatically. There are many different brands and models and the most basic are the typical polyethylene kayaks usually used by rental companies. They are usually very versatile kayaks and since they do not fit inside, if a capsize occurs, you just have to flip them over and climb back on top, which is very safe for inexperienced paddlers and one of their biggest advantages is that they are almost indestructible. But these kayaks, despite sailing much better than an inflatable, also have many limitations in terms of learning more advanced techniques.

Therefore, if you really want to delve into this exciting modality, I would recommend that you choose a traditional sea kayak or a closed or “sit inside” sea kayak. These are boats in which you sit inside, closed with the skirt or bathing cover. The greatest advantage of this type of kayak is that by sitting inside, the paddler acquires much greater control of the boat and can perform many of the maneuvers thanks to the support or contact with his knees, feet and hips. It is often said that paddler and boat become one. By being closed with the “cover” also prevents water from entering, even in case of capsize if you master the technique of roll or “esquimotaje” (We are talking about the “fetish” maneuver for all experienced kayakers).

The feeling of being enclosed in the kayak can be a bit overwhelming at first, so I would always recommend that before you start using this type of kayak someone teaches you at least the basic techniques of rescue and self-rescue, because if you are not clear about these concepts you can have a bad time if you fall into the water. We offer an INITIATION COURSE of one session in Denia or Javea in which we teach you everything you need to be self-sufficient in this modality. Below, we leave you the link so you can take a look in case you are interested:

https://aventurapatanegra.com/cursos-de-kayak/

https://www.kayak-granadella.com/cursos-de-kayak

Within this type of kayaks there is a huge range of possibilities and different brands. To give you a brief summary of the most important aspects or features to consider when buying your future boat I would look at the following points:

• Length or length of the boat: The longer the kayak is, as a general rule, the better it sails (in a straight line). But the more complicated turns and maneuvers become. So if you want it for multi-day trips or just long paddling trips, I would go for a kayak of 5 meters and more. However, if your outings are not that long or you are looking for a “more playful” kayak to be able to maneuver more comfortably or be more agile in the waves or among the rocks, I would go for a 4 meters and pico kayak. Kayaks shorter than 4 meters, in my opinion, become too slow and you will probably find it impossible to keep up with your touring buddies.
• Beam or width of the boat: Also as a general rule, the narrower the boat, the faster, but more unstable. To begin with, don’t choose a model that is too narrow or you will have a hard time getting the hang of it. It is worthwhile to change boats as you gain experience and self-confidence.
• Rocker or longitudinal curvature of the hull: A kayak with almost no curvature allows for faster and more efficient straight-line navigation. However, boats with more rocker make turning and maneuvering easier.

• Rudder: The rudder is a useful tool to keep the course especially in adverse conditions (waves or wind). Although I would always advise you to dispense with it if you are a beginner because it greatly adulterates the learning process. In addition in practice capsizes with rescues it becomes very dangerous as it is like a blade.
• Folding daggerboard: Very useful for keeping the course in kayaks with a lot of rocker. But don’t forget to stow it in rocky areas or when you reach the shore.
• Material: Polyethylene or fiberglass: Polyethylene is as I mentioned before almost indestructible but much heavier, but also much cheaper. So, if you are going to drag it a lot, plan to play among the rocks or just don’t want to spend a lot of money, this is a good option. A fiber kayak is much more expensive, but much lighter and although they are resistant, they get scratched and the paint jumps every time you get close to a rock.
• Primary and secondary stability: Primary stability could be understood as the stability that our kayak transmits to us when we are sitting on it, simply at rest floating on the water. Secondary stability is the one we perceive when we tilt the boat to one of the sides. This second one is very important when using more advanced techniques such as canters, turns or supports. Depending on the type of transverse curvature of the hull of our kayak, one or the other will predominate. If our hull has a “U” shape, we will have greater primary stability, but will lose stability when turning to one side. While if the hull is more “V” shaped we will gain that secondary stability. As a general rule, a beginner will always prefer a greater primary stability, since he will feel safer and will be less afraid of tipping over. But with this shape of the helmet it is more complicated to acquire skill in more advanced techniques since for these we need more secondary stability. Here as everything in life things are not black and white, I mean that we can find several intermediate options that best suit our characteristics.

• Kayak size: You should also keep in mind that normally all models have different sizes (each model usually has two or at most three different sizes. But you need yours to be comfortable). So it is not the same kayak for a 1’90 meters and 110 kg paddler than for a 1’60 meters and 65 kg paddler.
• Double or single kayak: Personally I would never buy a double kayak unless I already have my single kayak. Of course the double is fine to take your child for a walk or in special situations when one of the paddlers needs to be accompanied. But if you want to learn and enjoy with your sea kayak I would not hesitate to buy a single. You can’t imagine how many times people have told me that they had bought a double kayak and that in the end they never used it because their “supposed companion” always backed out or didn’t feel like it anymore.

With all this you can get an idea of how to start looking for your boat. I would advise you at first to try a friend’s kayak or buy a second hand kayak (there are several applications of this type of material where there are a variety of offers at good prices), as surely the first choice is not your final boat, either because you do not feel comfortable or because you are improving and you need a more technical kayak to evolve. In my case I have been trying more than six different models until I finally found the perfect kayak for me (for the moment…).

And if, despite all the above, you are not sure, do not hesitate to contact us and we will help you with your choice.